Quick Answer: A container tiny-home kitchen in Ontario fits best as a single-wall or short galley layout: a 24-inch apartment fridge, a two-burner cooktop or 24-inch range, and a single dishdrawer arranged on a compressed 4-foot work triangle inside the 7’9″ interior width. One-trip containers are the right grade because the floor and walls start dry and square. Van Blanc is Brantford-based since 1995, 4.9 stars across 124+ Google reviews, with 1-3 day delivery across Ontario.
In This Guide
- Why Is the Kitchen the Hardest Room in a Container Tiny Home?
- What Interior Dimensions Do You Actually Have to Work With?
- Galley, Single-Wall, or L-Shape: Which Layout Should You Pick?
- How Does the Work Triangle Fit Inside a 7’9″ Width?
- Which 24-Inch Appliance Package Fits a Container Kitchen?
- How Much Counter and Storage Do You Need for a Functional Kitchen?
- Open Shelving or Upper Cabinets: Which Works Overhead?
- How Do You Handle Ventilation, Power, and the Range Hood?
- Which Container Specs Should You Lock Before You Order the Box?
- Why Does a Brantford Yard Walk Lock the Plan?
- FAQs
Reading time: about 13 minutes.
This article is part of our wider container tiny-home build series for Ontario buyers. The parent guide covers the full ADU and garden-suite build; this page is the kitchen-design deep dive. If you are still mapping out how the whole unit comes together, our full ADU and garden-suite build walkthrough sets the context, then come back here for the cabinet, appliance, and clearance details. Van Blanc delivers the steel shell in 1-3 days from our 4 Brantford yards. The kitchen plan needs more time than that, and it deserves it.
Why Is the Kitchen the Hardest Room in a Container Tiny Home?
The kitchen is the hardest room in a container tiny home because it has to do more work in less width than any other space in the box. In a normal house the kitchen has 12 to 15 feet of wall to work with on at least two sides. In a 20ft or 40ft container, the interior is roughly 7’9″ wide and either 19’4″ or 39’5″ long depending on the box. That changes the geometry of every cabinet decision. You cannot fit a 30-inch range, a French-door fridge, and a 4-foot island the way a normal kitchen designer would. Every inch of counter is real estate that has to do two jobs: prep surface and storage shelf.
The other hard part is what the kitchen has to compete with. In a container tiny home the kitchen shares the same long rectangle with the living room, the bathroom wall, and often the sleeping nook. There is no separate kitchen door to close. The hood fan vents through a steel roof. The fridge motor sits four feet from the bed. Everything you decide here ripples into the rest of the build, so the kitchen plan goes on paper first and the bathroom plan and bedroom plan accommodate it.
Most buyers who walk our Brantford yard with a tiny-home kitchen sketch have the same realisation when they step inside an empty 40ft container. The width is narrower than they pictured, and the appliances they were planning around are sized for a normal kitchen. We hand them a tape measure, mark the 24-inch fridge footprint on the floor, and the conversation reshapes itself in 90 seconds.
A container tiny-home kitchen works inside a 7’9″ interior width by using 24-inch base cabinets and 24-inch appliances instead of the 30-inch sizes a normal kitchen uses. The standard package is an apartment fridge, a two-burner cooktop or 24-inch range, a single dishdrawer, and a single-basin sink on one or two short cabinet runs.
Paul LeBlanc, owner: “People draw the kitchen for the house they live in now, then try to drop it into a container. It never fits. I tell every tiny-home buyer the same thing before they spend a dollar on cabinets: come to the Brantford yard, stand inside the empty box, and tape out the fridge on the floor. Twenty-four inches looks different on a real steel floor than it does on a screen.”
What Interior Dimensions Do You Actually Have to Work With?
The interior dimensions of a container are the hard limit every kitchen plan answers to, so get the numbers honest before you talk layouts. A 20ft container has an external width of 8 feet, but the interior width once you lose the corrugated wall thickness is 7 feet 9 inches (2.35 metres). A 40ft High Cube is the same width with extra ceiling height (8 feet 10 inches interior versus 7 feet 10 inches in a standard). Both 20ft and 40ft High Cubes share that same 2.35-metre interior width, so the kitchen width math is identical regardless of length.
Length is where 20ft and 40ft diverge. A 20ft interior gives you 19’4″ (5.9 m) to share among kitchen, bathroom, and sleeping. A 40ft interior gives you 39’5″ (12.0 m). The 20ft is almost always a galley-style single-wall kitchen because there is no length to spare for two parallel runs. The 40ft can host a short galley, an L-shape, or a single-wall depending on how generous you want the living room to feel.
The Three Container Kitchen Width Reality Checks
First, a 24-inch base cabinet plus a 36-inch walkway plus another 24-inch base cabinet equals 84 inches (7 feet). That fits inside 7’9″ with three inches of margin on each side. A 30-inch base cabinet on each side does not fit, which is why galley layouts in containers default to 24-inch cabinets. Second, the corrugation profile means your finished interior wall sits an inch or two inboard of the steel, so always design from a 7’7″ or 7’8″ working width rather than the raw container spec. Third, the floor in stock containers is treated marine plywood; full kitchen layouts usually require a sealed subfloor over it before tile or LVP, which adds another half-inch of finished floor height and changes your countertop reach.
Galley, Single-Wall, or L-Shape: Which Layout Should You Pick?
Three kitchen layouts work inside a container, and which one you pick comes down to box length, cabinet budget, and whether one cook or two will use the space. Each has a different cost, different cabinet count, and a different feel.
| Layout | Best container | Cabinet runs | Work triangle | Trade-off |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Single-wall | 20ft or 40ft | One long wall | Collapses to a straight line | Cheapest and simplest plumbing; prep, cook, and cleanup share one 4-foot span |
| Short galley | 40ft | Two parallel walls, 36-inch corridor | Genuine triangle across the corridor | Most efficient per square foot; roughly 60 percent more cabinetry and a hard pinch point for two people |
| L-shape | 40ft | One long wall plus one short end wall | Wraps the corner | Puts the cooktop on the end wall for a straight-up vent; the corner cabinet is dead space without a pull-out |
Single-wall (one run along one long side). All cabinets and appliances on one wall. Sink in the middle, fridge at one end, cooktop at the other. Counter run is whatever you give it: 7 feet, 9 feet, 12 feet, more in a 40ft. The opposite wall stays open for the living space. This is the cheapest layout (fewer cabinets), the easiest plumbing run (everything on one wall), and the simplest electrical. Trade-off: the work triangle collapses into a straight line, so prep, cook, and cleanup happen in the same 4-foot span and bumping happens during dinner prep.
Short galley (two parallel runs, both sides of the corridor). Sink and cooktop on one wall, fridge and prep counter opposite. A 36-inch corridor between them. This is the most efficient layout per square foot, and it gives you a genuine work triangle. Trade-off: cabinets on both walls cost roughly 60 percent more than a single-wall, and the corridor becomes a hard pinch point any time two people are in the kitchen. Best in 40ft builds where 8 to 10 feet of kitchen length leaves the rest of the box for the living and sleep zones.
L-shape (cabinets along one long side and one short end). Works in 40ft containers when the kitchen wraps around a corner into the end wall. The short leg often holds the cooktop and range hood (so the vent terminates straight up through the roof with no horizontal duct run). Trade-off: the corner cabinet is dead space unless you put a corner-pull-out in, which adds cost.
Pick Your Layout in the Yard, Not on Paper
Bring blue painter’s tape to your Brantford yard walkthrough. Mark a 24-inch fridge footprint, a 36-inch sink base, and a 24-inch cooktop on the floor of the container that interests you. Walk between them. Stand at the imaginary sink and reach for the imaginary fridge. The plan that feels right with tape on a real steel floor is the plan that will feel right with cabinets installed. The plan that only works on paper rarely survives first contact with a 7’9″ wall.
How Does the Work Triangle Fit Inside a 7’9″ Width?
The work triangle in a container kitchen fits by compressing, not by stretching to normal-kitchen dimensions. The kitchen work triangle is a design rule from the 1940s that still governs how a small kitchen feels: the three legs connecting sink, cooktop, and fridge should each measure between 4 and 9 feet, with a total perimeter under 26 feet. In a container that range compresses hard. A 20ft single-wall kitchen often has a triangle perimeter of 8 to 12 feet, meaning every leg is roughly 3 to 4 feet. That is technically below the NKBA minimum, but in a container it works because you are not moving across the kitchen, you are pivoting in place.
In a 40ft galley, the triangle stretches: 4 feet from sink to cooktop, 4 feet from cooktop to fridge (across the 36-inch corridor), 5 feet from fridge back to sink. Perimeter around 13 feet. That feels genuinely roomy for a tiny home because the corridor gives you a single step between zones rather than a pivot.
The mistake to avoid is fighting the geometry. Trying to force a normal-kitchen triangle (sink and cooktop 6 feet apart, fridge 8 feet from sink) inside a 20ft container means your living area shrinks to 8 feet long and you lose the couch. Accept the compressed triangle, design for one cook at a time, and the kitchen functions perfectly. We have walked dozens of completed builds in Ontario where the owner cooks comfortably in a 9-foot single-wall every day.
Which 24-Inch Appliance Package Fits a Container Kitchen?
The appliance package that fits a container kitchen is built around the 24-inch cabinet module rather than the 30-inch sizes a normal kitchen uses. A normal Ontario kitchen runs on 30-inch appliances: 30-inch range, 30-inch range hood, 30-inch fridge (or wider). None of those fit naturally in a container. The package that does fit, that you can buy at any Canadian appliance retailer, looks like this:
| Appliance | Width | Why it fits |
|---|---|---|
| Apartment fridge (top or bottom freezer) | 24 inches | Same 24-inch base-cabinet module as everything else; capacity 10 to 13 cubic feet |
| Counter-depth bar fridge (under-counter) | 24 inches | Frees overhead space if you accept smaller capacity (5 to 6 cubic feet) |
| Two-burner cooktop (induction or gas) | 12 to 24 inches | A 12-inch two-burner sits in a 24-inch cabinet with prep space beside it |
| Four-burner 24-inch range | 24 inches | Available from Avanti, Summit, Bosch; full oven inside the 24-inch envelope |
| Single dishdrawer | 24 inches | Fisher and Paykel or Bosch; integrates under a counter; uses far less water than a full dishwasher |
| Compact range hood (recirculating or ducted) | 24 to 30 inches | Slim under-cabinet style; ducted up through the roof in 6-inch round |
| Bar sink (single basin) | 15 to 25 inches | Single basin works in a tiny kitchen because you wash one pan at a time |
The choice that drives the rest of the kitchen is fridge size. A 24-inch apartment fridge with 11 cubic feet of capacity is the workhorse for tiny-home builds because it gives you full upright storage (groceries for a week of two people) inside a 24-inch base-cabinet footprint. The under-counter bar fridge frees vertical space for overhead storage but cuts capacity to a few days. Most of the builds we deliver containers to choose the upright apartment fridge and design the kitchen around it.
For cooktop, induction has the highest cost but works best in a container because it produces no combustion (no makeup-air requirement, less ventilation concern) and stays cool to the touch one inch outside the pan footprint. A two-burner induction unit covers 95 percent of home cooking. A 24-inch range with oven adds bake capability at the cost of about 6 cubic feet of cabinet that the oven occupies. Cabinet sizing and counter math interact with the interior measurements of each box size in ways that surprise first-time builders, so settle the appliance list against the real numbers before you commit.
Christian LeBlanc, second-generation operator: “We had a buyer last year who fought us for two weeks on a 30-inch range. He measured, measured, finally walked our yard, taped out 30 inches on the floor of a 40HC, and stood there looking at it. The next morning he ordered the 24-inch Bosch instead. The 30-inch was technically possible, but it left him with 18 inches of counter on one side. The 24-inch gave him 36. That decision saved his kitchen.”
How Much Counter and Storage Do You Need for a Functional Kitchen?
Counter and storage in a container kitchen come down to making every inch do two jobs, because you will never hit the frontage a normal kitchen has. NKBA guidelines suggest 158 inches of total countertop frontage for a fully functional kitchen. A container tiny home almost never hits that number. The realistic target inside a 20ft is 60 to 84 inches of counter, and inside a 40ft 96 to 144 inches depending on how much of the box you give to the kitchen. The trick is making each inch count for two things.
A 24-inch base cabinet to the left of the cooktop becomes both prep counter and overflow staging during cleanup. A 36-inch cabinet to the right of the sink holds the dish drainer when you are washing and the cutting board when you are not. The sink itself shrinks to a single basin so that the counter on either side is real counter rather than half-sink. A pull-out cutting board over a drawer adds 18 inches of intermittent prep surface without taking permanent space.
Storage frontage works the same way. NKBA recommends 1,400 inches of shelf and drawer frontage in a small kitchen. A container kitchen rarely hits half of that, so every drawer needs to be deep, every cabinet needs to use full height, and overhead cabinets need to go to the ceiling rather than stopping at 84 inches. The space between a 90-inch cabinet top and a 96-inch ceiling becomes a soffit; the space between a 96-inch cabinet top and the same 96-inch ceiling becomes seasonal storage for a stand mixer or a slow cooker. The extra six inches is worth the cost difference.
The Container Kitchen Storage Hierarchy
- Daily-use zone (eye to hip): Plates, glasses, mugs, coffee, salt, knife block, cutting boards. Reachable in one motion, no stretch.
- Weekly-use zone (knee to eye): Pots, pans, mixing bowls, food processor, dry goods. One step or one squat to access.
- Seasonal-use zone (above the head, under the toe-kick): Roasting pan, holiday platters, second set of small appliances, vacuum-sealed bulk pantry. Step stool acceptable.
- The reach test: If you cannot reach an item without moving your feet or grabbing a stool, it goes in the seasonal zone. If you reach for it weekly, redesign the cabinet.
Open Shelving or Upper Cabinets: Which Works Overhead?
Overhead storage in a container kitchen is a choice between open shelving and closed upper cabinets, and most builds end up mixing the two. Overhead cabinets in a container have two enemies: ceiling height and visual weight. A standard-height container has 7’10” of interior ceiling, which means base cabinet (36 inches) plus 18-inch backsplash plus 30-inch upper cabinet plus crown molding leaves you bumping the ceiling. A high-cube container at 8’10” gives you the breathing room to run full uppers, but the cabinets still feel heavy because they swallow the daylight from the small windows.
Open shelving solves the visual-weight problem but at the cost of storage volume (no doors means no dust protection and less per-shelf depth). The compromise most container tiny homes settle on is mixed: one wall of solid uppers for the high-volume storage (plates, glasses, dry goods), and one open run for the daily-use items (coffee, salt, oil) plus decorative items that make the kitchen feel like a home rather than a galley. The eye reads the open run as breathing room even though it is only 36 inches wide.
If you go open shelving, anchor every shelf into the cross-member behind the corrugation, not into the wall sheet alone. The corrugation profile means a screw into the high point of the wave has half an inch of bite into thin steel. A screw into a vertical 2×4 strapping that you furred out before drywall has the same holding power as in a normal house. Plan the strapping pattern before you close the walls because moving an open shelf six inches after drywall is expensive.
How Do You Handle Ventilation, Power, and the Range Hood?
Ventilation and power in a container kitchen need more thought than in a normal house because the steel shell traps moisture and the electrical load is dense for the floor area. A range hood in a container kitchen is more important than it is in a normal house. Cooking moisture and grease have nowhere to dissipate in a steel-shell tiny home; both condense on the cold side of the wall (winter morning, north-facing corner) and feed mould or rust over time. Venting straight up through the steel roof solves that. That means a 6-inch round duct, a backdraft damper, a roof-jack flashing properly sealed to the corrugation, and a hood rated for at least 250 CFM (the NKBA minimum for residential cooking; container kitchens often spec 400 CFM because the volume of the space is so small that air turnover happens fast). Going up through the roof is the short straight run, which is exactly what range-hood manufacturers want. We cut and frame roof penetrations, vents, and openings as part of our yard conversion program before the box leaves Brantford, while the trickier final connections stay with your licensed electrician and gas fitter.
Electrical load matters here. A 24-inch induction cooktop pulls 30 to 40 amps on a 240-volt circuit. A 24-inch range with oven pulls 40 to 50 amps. A 1500-watt apartment fridge pulls 15 amps continuous, peaking higher on compressor start. Add dishdrawer (15 amps), microwave (15 amps), hood (5 amps), and two counter-outlet circuits (20 amps each), and the kitchen alone is asking for 100 to 150 amps of panel capacity. A 100-amp panel runs a small container tiny home if the rest of the build is electric-thrifty (LED everything, on-demand water heating, mini-split HVAC). A 200-amp service is the right call if you want full electric cooking, heating, and a future EV charger. Your electrician sizes the panel and the breaker schedule, so hand them this load list early.
Which Container Specs Should You Lock Before You Order the Box?
The container specs that decide your kitchen are size, ceiling height, floor condition, and grade, and the smart move is to lock those before you finalise the cabinet plan. A 20ft box gives you a galley-width single-wall kitchen and a compact footprint; a 40ft gives you room for a galley, an L-shape, or a single-wall with a generous living zone. A standard-height box leaves 7’10” of interior ceiling, which crowds full uppers, while a high cube at 8’10” lets the cabinets run to the top without bumping crown molding.
Grade is the spec most first-time builders underweight. One-trip containers start dry, square, and clean, which is exactly what a kitchen fit-out needs, because cabinets, tile, and LVP all assume a flat true floor and walls that have not taken a decade of dents. If you are weighing the grade decision, our new one-trip container options are the grade we steer every tiny-home kitchen build toward, with used Cargo Worthy and Wind and Watertight grades better reserved for stationary storage. The practical clearances worth designing to are a 36-inch minimum walkway between opposing cabinet faces (42 inches is comfortable if you have the length), and 30 inches of clearance between a cooktop surface and any combustible cabinet above it, which a metal hood face can reduce per your range hood spec sheet.
Why Buyers Across Ontario Drive to the Brantford Yard for a Tiny-Home Box
Buyers come to our Brantford yard from across Ontario to settle the tiny-home decision in person, because a kitchen plan lives or dies on the real interior of the box. We pull the size and grade you are considering onto a flat spot, open the doors, and let you walk it with a tape measure before you commit a dollar. Seeing the 7’9″ width, the floor condition, and the ceiling height with your own eyes is worth the drive, and it is the same reason buyers from Hamilton, Cambridge, and the Niagara fruit belt make the trip rather than ordering a box they have never stood inside.
Why Does a Brantford Yard Walk Lock the Plan?
A Brantford yard walk locks the plan because it tests the kitchen against the real box instead of an idealised drawing. A kitchen plan that works on paper inside a normal house dimension does not automatically work inside 7’9″ of container width. The single most useful step in the design process is standing inside an empty container with a tape measure and the appliance spec sheets, marking the footprint of every cabinet on the floor with painter’s tape, and walking the resulting kitchen before the steel leaves our Brantford yard.
We have walked dozens of buyers through this exercise over the years. The 30-minute yard visit catches geometry problems that two weeks of CAD drawings missed: a cabinet door that hits the bathroom door at 90 degrees, a fridge depth that the floor plan said was 24 inches but the spec sheet says 28 inches with the door open, a counter run that looked generous in plan and turns out to need a step ladder because the upper cabinets crowd it. Catching those in the yard is free. Catching them after the steel is on your pad and the plumber is on the clock is not.
Paul LeBlanc started Van Blanc in 1995 after 40 years in Asian trade. His son Christian has 4 years of direct yard experience plus 19 years of indirect industry exposure from traveling with his father starting at age 15. Between them they have walked more buyers through more container interiors than anyone we know of in southwestern Ontario. The yard walk is part of how we sell containers honestly; the kitchen plan is something we expect every tiny-home buyer to come ready to talk about. We deliver in 1-3 days to every region across Ontario from our 4 Brantford yards. The kitchen plan deserves slower thought than the delivery, and a yard walk is where that thought turns concrete.
Ready to price your container?
Tell us the size and your postal code and we’ll send back an honest, all-in number, container, delivery, and placement, usually within 1-3 days. No pressure, no mystery fees.
Family-run in Brantford since 1995 · 200+ containers in stock · 4.9★ across 124+ Google reviews · every box graded by a person, walk it before it lands.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can a normal 30-inch range fit in a container tiny home kitchen?
Physically yes, geometrically rarely. A 30-inch range plus 18 inches of counter on each side equals 66 inches, which leaves only about 18 inches of remaining counter run in a typical 84-inch galley. A 24-inch range with the same 18-inch flanking counters leaves 36 inches of working counter. Almost every container tiny-home build we have walked through ends up choosing 24-inch over 30-inch once the buyer sees the trade-off in the yard.
What size fridge fits best in a 20ft container kitchen?
A 24-inch wide apartment fridge in the 10 to 13 cubic-foot capacity range is the standard answer. It uses the same 24-inch base-cabinet module as the cooktop and sink base, gives you full upright storage for a couple’s weekly groceries, and fits inside a 65 to 72 inch height envelope. Cooking moisture and grease have nowhere to dissipate in a sealed steel shell, and they condense on cold corners over winter. Plan for a 250 to 400 CFM hood vented straight up through the roof with a 6-inch round duct, a backdraft damper, and a properly flashed roof penetration.
What is the smallest workable kitchen size in a container tiny home?
A 60-inch single-wall run (fridge, sink, cooktop in a 5-foot stretch) is the practical floor. Below that there is not enough counter to land a plate while you cook. Above 84 inches the kitchen starts to feel like a real kitchen. Most 20ft container tiny homes land at 72 to 96 inches of kitchen run; most 40ft builds land at 96 to 144 inches.
Should I choose a single-wall, galley, or L-shaped kitchen for a 40ft container?
Single-wall is the cheapest and easiest. Short galley gives you the best work-triangle for two cooks. L-shape works if you can wrap the cooktop onto the short end wall, which simplifies the range hood vent run. Most 40ft container tiny-home buyers we walk through the yard choose single-wall because it leaves the most open space for the rest of the long rectangle.
What appliances should I avoid in a container tiny-home kitchen?
Skip 30-inch ranges, French-door fridges, full-size dishwashers, and large built-in microwaves. They were designed for a different geometry. Choose 24-inch ranges or two-burner cooktops, 24-inch apartment fridges, single dishdrawers, and over-the-counter microwaves or microwave drawers. Every appliance choice that fits the 24-inch cabinet module saves you 6 inches of counter that you will use every day.
How much electrical service does a container tiny-home kitchen need?
A full-electric kitchen (induction cooktop, electric oven, apartment fridge, dishdrawer, hood, two counter circuits) draws 100 to 150 amps under peak load. A 100-amp service runs the kitchen plus a thrifty rest-of-house. A 200-amp service is the right choice if you plan electric heating, an EV charger, or any future workshop equipment. Talk to your electrician about the breaker schedule before drywall.
Can I use open shelving instead of upper cabinets in a container kitchen?
Yes, and many container tiny-home owners do. The trade-off is storage volume; open shelving holds about 60 percent of what closed uppers do because of the no-door requirement and the dust factor. The compromise that works best is mixed: one wall of solid uppers for plates and dry goods, one open run of two or three shelves for daily-use items and decorative pieces. Anchor open shelves into vertical strapping behind the drywall, not into the corrugation alone.
What is the work-triangle measurement inside a 20ft container kitchen?
Most 20ft single-wall layouts produce a compressed triangle of 8 to 12 feet total perimeter, with each leg between 3 and 4 feet. That is below the NKBA recommended 13 to 26 foot range, but it works in a container because you pivot in place rather than walking between zones. Accept the compression and design for one cook at a time and the kitchen functions perfectly.
Does Van Blanc supply containers ready for tiny-home kitchen builds?
We supply the steel shell. The kitchen fit-out (cabinets, appliances, plumbing rough-in, electrical, HVAC) is your build team’s work. What we contribute is the right grade and size of container for the build, a yard walk where you can tape out the kitchen footprint inside the actual box before delivery, and an honest conversation about which buyer choices have caused trouble for previous tiny-home builds we have supplied containers to. One-trip containers are the right grade for tiny-home builds because the floor and walls start dry, square, and clean. Used Cargo Worthy or Wind and Watertight grades work for storage; tiny-home builds deserve the One-Trip.
Sources
- International Organization for Standardization. (2020). ISO 668:2020 Series 1 freight containers, Classification, dimensions and ratings. iso.org/standard/76912.html
- National Kitchen and Bath Association. (2022). Kitchen Planning Guidelines with Access Standards. nkba.org
- International Organization for Standardization. (2022). ISO 6346:2022 Freight containers, Coding, identification and marking. iso.org/standard/82754.html
- Bosch Home Appliances. (2025). 24-Inch Compact Ranges and Dishwashers, Product Dimensions. bosch-home.com
- Summit Appliance. (2025). Appliances for Tiny Homes and Micro Kitchens. summitappliance.com/microkitchen
Reach Van Blanc in Brantford
We have been supplying shipping containers across Ontario since 1995. Our warehouse is at 90 Morton Avenue E in Brantford, and we deliver right across the province on a cash-on-delivery basis. No surprise fees, no chase-the-paperwork.
Van Blanc Ent. Inc., 90 Morton Ave E Unit 1B, Brantford, ON N3R 7J7. +1 888-509-6658
Bring blue painter’s tape and the spec sheets for the fridge, cooktop, and sink you are considering. Walk inside an empty 20ft or 40HC and mark the kitchen footprint on the corrugated floor. The 30 minutes you spend in the yard is the cheapest design review your tiny-home build will get, and it usually catches at least one geometry problem before the steel ships.
Placement requirements vary by municipality. A quick call to your local planning office before delivery is the easiest way to confirm what works for your property.