Quick Answer: Drawing on building-envelope guidance from the National Research Council of Canada, container winter moisture management in Ontario means breaking the dew-point cycle before frost forms on the ceiling. Combine passive cross-ventilation, 50 mm closed-cell spray foam on walls and roof, calcium-chloride desiccants at one pound per 100 cubic feet, and elevated pallet storage. Inspect monthly from December to March. Brantford-based since 1995, family-operated, 4.9-star verified (124+ Google reviews). 1-3 day delivery Ontario-wide.
In This Guide
- Why Do Shipping Containers Sweat in an Ontario Winter?
- What Does the Daily Freeze-Thaw Cycle Do to a Container Wall?
- What Is the Dew Point Inside an Unheated Brantford Container?
- Is Ventilation the Cheapest Way to Stop Container Condensation?
- Why Is Closed-Cell Spray Foam Better Than R-Value Alone?
- Do Desiccants and Dehumidifiers Work in Sub-Zero Air?
- How Does Site Prep Cut Container Moisture Before It Starts?
- What Should a December-to-March Container Walkthrough Cover?
- Why Is Spring Meltwater the Problem Nobody Talks About?
- How Should You Pack Contents for a Winter Container?
- What Drives the Cost of Winterizing a Container?
- When Should You Call a Professional Versus DIY?
- Frequently Asked Questions
Reading Time: 14 minutes
Every December, a customer calls Van Blanc with the same story. They bought a container in October. November was fine. Then a January cold snap hit, the temperature swung from minus eighteen at night to plus four during a quick thaw, and they opened the doors on a Saturday morning to find frost on the ceiling, water beaded on every cross-member, and a damp ring around the perimeter of the floor. Whatever they had stored inside, drywall, tools, seasonal stock, family memorabilia, had spent two months marinating in the wettest microclimate on their property.
This guide is the long version of what we tell those callers. It covers the physics of why a sealed steel box becomes a rain machine in an Ontario winter, the four moisture-control levers that actually work, and the monthly inspection pattern Paul has refined over nineteen years in containers and thirty years running Van Blanc out of Brantford. If you want the broader picture of how moisture behaves inside containers across all seasons, how moisture behaves inside a sealed container year round sets the foundation. This piece narrows in on December through March specifically.
Why Do Shipping Containers Sweat in an Ontario Winter?
A shipping container sweats in winter because its steel shell conducts heat outward far faster than the air inside, so the ceiling and walls fall below the dew point of the trapped interior air. Vapour then condenses onto the cold steel, freezes overnight as frost, and drips down during the daytime thaw.
Christian LeBlanc, second-generation operator: “Most of the winter callbacks we get are the same picture. The box was bone dry in October, somebody locked it shut, and by January the ceiling looks like the inside of a chest freezer. The steel is doing exactly what steel does in a Brantford cold snap. Once you understand that, the fix is straightforward.”
A shipping container is a 2.4 mm corten steel shell with a wood floor sitting on cross-members. Steel conducts heat about 700 times faster than wood, and a hundred thousand times faster than the air inside. That conductivity is the whole problem. The interior air may sit at minus one degree on a January morning, but the steel ceiling, conducting heat outward through every square inch of its surface, drops to whatever the night sky is radiating to. On a clear minus-twenty-five night in Brant County, that can mean the ceiling skin is colder than the air below it by several degrees.
When that ceiling skin is below the dew point of the air inside, water vapour condenses onto the steel. If the steel is also below freezing, the condensation skips the liquid phase and lays down directly as frost. By morning the entire interior ceiling looks like the inside of a freezer that has not been defrosted in a decade. When the sun rises, the south-facing roof warms first, the frost melts, and the meltwater drips onto whatever is stored below. The cycle repeats every clear-sky winter day for roughly ninety days in southern Ontario and longer in the north.
The Three Moisture Inputs You Are Fighting
Moisture inside an unheated winter container comes from three sources, ranked by typical contribution. First, ambient humid air that entered when the doors were last open and has been trapped since. Second, the wood floor itself, which holds 10 to 18 percent moisture by weight and releases it slowly into the interior air as temperatures fluctuate. Third, the contents, especially anything organic such as cardboard, untreated lumber, fabric, or food packaging. Address all three or you will keep wiping water off the ceiling.
What Does the Daily Freeze-Thaw Cycle Do to a Container Wall?
The freeze-thaw cycle is what does the damage. A single sub-zero night is uncomfortable for whatever you have stored, but a steel surface that crosses the freezing point and back across every twenty-four hours is what generates the worst moisture load. In February and early March, a south-facing container wall in Brantford can sit at minus eighteen at six in the morning and plus six by two in the afternoon, every day for a fortnight, even when overnight lows stay frigid.
Each daytime warm-up melts the frost layer that built up overnight. The meltwater either drips down the walls and pools at the base of the cargo, or runs along the cross-members and collects in the corners of the floor. The next overnight freeze locks that water in place. Repeat that for three months and the floor under any item that has been sitting still all winter is reliably wet, even if the doors have not been opened since November.
The same physics applies to a container in Sudbury or anywhere in northern Ontario, but with a longer season and deeper amplitude. A Northern Ontario operator running a bunkhouse or parts cage through January sees the same freeze-thaw effect with night temperatures forty below and daytime swings into the minus-ten range, which is its own challenge but actually generates less liquid water than the marginal sub-zero swings of southern Ontario because the system never crosses the freezing point during the cold months.
What Is the Dew Point Inside an Unheated Brantford Container?
Dew point is the temperature at which the water vapour already in the air starts condensing onto whatever surface is colder. The colder the surface relative to the air, the more vapour drops out. Knowing roughly where your dew point sits tells you whether the ceiling is going to sweat tonight or not.
| Interior air temp | Relative humidity | Approximate dew point | What this means for the container |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5 °C | 70 % | -0.1 °C | Any surface below freezing will frost overnight |
| 0 °C | 80 % | -3.0 °C | Steel ceiling at -10 °C will lay down heavy frost |
| -5 °C | 85 % | -7.2 °C | Smaller frost load, but daytime thaw still drips |
| -10 °C | 90 % | -11.4 °C | Deep cold, dry air, minimal active condensation |
| 2 °C (post-thaw) | 95 % | 1.3 °C | Worst case: humid interior air, cold ceiling, active drip |
The numbers above use the standard Magnus-Tetens approximation that engineers use for psychrometric work, and they line up with what we see in the yard. The dangerous condition is not the deepest cold. It is the marginal sub-zero state, particularly the morning after a thaw, when the interior air is loaded with vapour and the ceiling is still cold from the overnight drop. That is when you get visible water dripping rather than dry frost.
The 4 °C Rule of Thumb
If the interior air is more than 4 °C warmer than the coldest interior surface, expect visible condensation. That gap is bridgeable in two directions: insulate the steel so the ceiling stays warmer, or ventilate the interior so the air temperature follows the ambient more closely. Both reduce the gap. Most Ontario operators do a bit of each.
Is Ventilation the Cheapest Way to Stop Container Condensation?
Before you commit to the priciest line item, spray foam, install passive vents. A pair of louvred vents, one low on the door end and one high on the opposite end wall, is one of the cheapest modifications on the list, requires no power, and cuts winter condensation by 60 to 80 percent on most bins. The physics is simple. Cold dry winter air enters the low vent, displaces the warmer humid interior air upward, and pushes it out the high vent. The interior never has time to load up with moisture because it is continuously refreshed.
The vents have to be louvred and screened. Plain holes let snow and rodents in; open vents without slats let driven rain through. We install standard four-by-six-inch steel louvres with insect mesh on every container, part of the cold-weather builds we finish at our Brantford yard before delivery. The cost is modest, the install takes an hour, and the result is dramatic. Customers who add ventilation to a previously closed container regularly report the interior is dry within a week of the modification.
Why Two Vents, Not Just One
A single vent breathes by pressure differential alone, which works on a windy day and stops on a still one. A diagonal pair creates a convective stack effect: cold dense air falls in the low vent on one end, displaces the lighter interior air up and out the high vent on the other end. The flow runs even on a dead-calm minus-fifteen night. Without the pair, you are relying on wind, and Ontario winters have plenty of still-air weeks in January.
Whirlybird roof turbines are another option, and they work on windy sites. The downside is they create a single point of failure, they can ice up in freezing rain, and the rotating element eventually wears. Louvred vents in cross-position have no moving parts and last as long as the container. For most Ontario applications we recommend the louvred pair as the default and the turbine only when the bin is on an exposed site where wind is reliable.
Why Is Closed-Cell Spray Foam Better Than R-Value Alone?
Insulation matters because it keeps the steel ceiling above the interior dew point. R-value tells you how slowly heat moves through the assembly, which is part of the story, but the moisture story depends on something R-value does not capture: vapour permeability. A vapour-open insulation such as fibreglass batting lets interior humidity migrate through it and condense on the back of the cold steel anyway. You end up with wet insulation, which is worse than no insulation because it stays wet for months.
Closed-cell spray polyurethane foam at 50 mm thickness solves both problems at once. The foam itself is a Class II vapour retarder, meaning it blocks vapour migration to the steel. It also achieves roughly R-7 per inch, so two inches gives you around R-14 on the ceiling and walls, enough to keep interior surfaces above the dew point at typical Ontario winter air temperatures. The foam is sprayed directly to the corrugated steel, fills every rib, and adheres permanently. There is no air gap, no batt to sag, no vapour barrier to install separately.
Why Closed-Cell, Not Open-Cell
Open-cell spray foam is cheaper and lighter but it is vapour-open. In a heated occupied building it works fine because the interior air is conditioned. In an unheated storage container it acts like a sponge, drawing in winter humidity and holding it against the cold steel. Closed-cell foam, with its sealed bubble structure, blocks vapour and acts as the vapour barrier itself. For unheated Ontario storage, closed-cell is the only spray foam worth considering.
The cost to spray a 20 ft container ceiling and walls in 50 mm closed-cell varies with the contractor, the square footage of steel covered, and the exact thickness specified. It is the most expensive line item in any winterization budget, but it is a one-time spend for a bin that may sit on a property for twenty years. For an off-season storage shed it is overkill. For an occupied workshop, home office, or anything storing electronics, art, instruments, or anything sensitive to humidity, it is the only honest answer.
If foam is out of budget, the next-best layer is rigid polyiso boards mechanically fastened with sealed seams, achieving roughly R-6 per inch. Two inches of polyiso gives you R-12 with proper taped joints functioning as a vapour barrier. It costs roughly half what spray foam does but the installation labour is much higher and the seams are the failure point. We see polyiso jobs done well that last decades, and polyiso jobs done sloppily that develop mould behind the boards within two winters. If you go this route, hire someone who has done it before.
Do Desiccants and Dehumidifiers Work in Sub-Zero Air?
Desiccants and dehumidifiers both pull moisture out of the air, but they work very differently in winter conditions and the wrong choice wastes money.
Calcium chloride desiccant buckets, the white pellets sold under brand names like DampRid, work through deliquescence. Each pellet of calcium chloride attracts water vapour from the surrounding air, dissolves into a liquid brine, and the brine drips into a collection reservoir at the bottom of the bucket. The process runs at any temperature above the brine’s freezing point, which is roughly minus thirty-five degrees Celsius, so calcium chloride works through any Ontario winter you will encounter.
Silica gel desiccants adsorb moisture onto a porous surface without changing physical state. They also work at low temperatures, but they are less effective at high relative humidity and they have a finite capacity that requires either disposal or oven-regeneration when saturated. For storage container use, calcium chloride is generally the better choice because it is cheap, available, single-use, and effective across the full Canadian winter temperature range. We break down which desiccant suits a cold storage container if you want to weigh the options in detail.
How Much Desiccant Actually Stops Moisture
Roughly one pound of calcium chloride desiccant per 100 cubic feet of container space. A 20 ft container is approximately 1,170 cubic feet, so 12 pounds of desiccant covers it for a normal winter. A 40 ft container is 2,390 cubic feet, so 24 pounds. Distribute the buckets across the floor, not stacked in one corner. Empty the brine reservoirs monthly through the worst-condensation months (January, February, March in southern Ontario). If you are seeing visible water on the ceiling, double the desiccant load.
Electric dehumidifiers, the kind you would use in a basement, do not work in unheated winter containers. They are designed for ambient temperatures above 5 °C and most models simply ice up below that, blowing cold air through frozen coils until the system shuts itself off on a safety. Compressor-style refrigerant dehumidifiers fail almost immediately in Ontario winter conditions. Desiccant-wheel electric dehumidifiers do work in cold temperatures, but they require continuous 120 V power, and they generate heat as a by-product. If the container is wired to grid power and the use case justifies it, a desiccant-wheel unit is excellent. For a typical unheated storage bin, passive calcium chloride is the answer.
How Does Site Prep Cut Container Moisture Before It Starts?
What happens under and around the container matters as much as what happens inside. Ground moisture migrates upward through the floor, around the corners, and through any gap in the door seals. Site prep choices made in October decide how dry the interior stays through March.
The Five Site-Prep Decisions That Cut Winter Moisture
- Elevate the corners: The container should sit on four corner blocks of pressure-treated 6×6 lumber or precast concrete pads, lifting the cross-members 4 to 6 inches off the ground. This prevents capillary moisture wicking from the ground into the wood floor and gives meltwater somewhere to drain.
- Grade for drainage: The ground under the container should slope at minimum 2 percent away from the long axis, so any spring meltwater that runs off the roof drains away rather than pooling under the floor.
- Vapour barrier underneath: A 6-mil poly sheet under the container’s footprint, extending 12 inches beyond each side, blocks ground moisture from entering the wood floor through the underside.
- Door seal inspection: Before winter, run a 100 W work light inside the container, close the doors, and check for visible light leaks. Any pinhole leak becomes a moisture entry point. Replace cracked door gaskets with new EPDM rubber profile, an inexpensive part priced per door.
- Avoid south-wall sun loading where possible: If you have site flexibility, orient the long axis east-west so the doors face east. This reduces the daytime thermal load on a single wall and softens the freeze-thaw amplitude.
The vapour barrier underneath is the most overlooked of those five. We see customers pour their whole budget into interior insulation while the wood floor is wicking groundwater all winter from below. The poly sheet is one of the cheapest parts you can buy and takes ten minutes to lay before the container drops. It is the single highest-return moisture prevention step on the list.
What Should a December-to-March Container Walkthrough Cover?
A December-to-March container walkthrough covers the floor, the corners, the cross-members, and the wood moisture reading, in that order. Paul has been running these winter inspections on Van Blanc bins since the late 1990s. The pattern is straightforward and takes about fifteen minutes per container.
Paul LeBlanc, owner: “Pick a Saturday morning every month from December to March. Bring a flashlight, a moisture meter if you have one, and a dry rag. Open the doors slowly so condensation drips on the outside, not the inside. Walk the perimeter of the floor, check the corners, look up at the cross-members. If you see frost on the ceiling, you have a ventilation problem. If you see standing water on the floor, you have a drainage problem. If the wood floor is dark and soft to the touch, you have a barrier problem. Different problems, different fixes, but all caught in the same fifteen-minute walk.”
The moisture meter Paul mentions is a pin-type wood moisture gauge, the kind any flooring contractor carries at a hardware store. You stab the two pins into the wood floor, take a reading, and anything above 20 percent indicates a wet floor that will not dry out passively. Above 28 percent is structurally concerning. Most Van Blanc customers with properly ventilated and elevated bins see readings in the 12 to 16 percent range through the worst of winter, which is normal for treated container plywood.
Why Is Spring Meltwater the Problem Nobody Talks About?
March and early April are when the worst moisture damage happens, not January. The reason is straightforward: the snow on the container roof melts, the meltwater finds every seam and corner gasket, and the warming interior air can suddenly hold more vapour than it has been holding all winter. The frozen condensation on the ceiling melts. The cold-soaked walls warm slowly. The dew point gap widens, then narrows, then widens again over a ten-day period of swing temperatures.
If your container has not had a January or February walkthrough, the spring thaw will reveal whatever moisture has been accumulating for three months. Cardboard boxes collapse. Drywall sheets warp. Anything sitting directly on the floor along the south wall develops a wet line. The customers who call us in mid-March asking why their stored materials are ruined are almost always the ones who closed the doors in November and assumed everything would be fine.
The Brant County Spring Thaw Window
In the Brantford and Brant County area, the spring thaw window typically runs from the first week of March through mid-April. Daytime highs cross into double digits while nighttime lows still dip to minus five or six. That is the worst possible condensation environment because the interior air can hold meaningful vapour while the steel walls are still cold. Cottage country and Northern Ontario see the same window pushed two to four weeks later. Plan your spring open-and-inspect day before the first sustained warm spell, ideally late February or early March in the south.
How Should You Pack Contents for a Winter Container?
Packing contents for a winter container means elevating everything off the floor, keeping moisture-sensitive goods off the south and west walls, and sealing high-value items against humidity. Even with the moisture controls above done correctly, a winter container is not a climate-controlled storage unit. Contents should be packed for the environment. The rules are simple and consistent across what we recommend.
How to Pack Contents for Ontario Winter Storage
- Elevate everything: Nothing sits directly on the wood floor. Use plastic pallets, foam blocks, or 2×4 sleepers to create a 4-inch air gap under every item. The floor is where moisture pools first.
- Avoid the south and west walls: Heat-sensitive or moisture-sensitive items go in the centre or against the north wall. The south wall sees the most daily thermal swing and the heaviest condensation load.
- No cardboard against steel: Cardboard is hygroscopic. It absorbs winter moisture, transfers it to whatever is inside, and weakens structurally. Wrap in plastic or use plastic totes instead.
- Vapour-seal high-value items: Electronics, instruments, documents, and anything with finished metal surfaces go in heat-sealed plastic bags or rigid plastic totes with rubber gasket seals. Silica gel packets inside each tote add an extra moisture layer.
- Drain anything liquid: Lawnmower fuel, garden chemicals, paint, and water-based products either come out for the winter or get stored on the highest shelf away from any wall contact. Frozen water expansion bursts containers regardless of how good the steel box is.
Paul has 19 years in the container industry and another two decades before that in Asian trade. The packing principles above are not unique to Van Blanc; they are the same principles ocean carriers use for cargo packed for a six-week Pacific crossing through equatorial humidity and arctic-air cold fronts. The container is a known environment. Pack for it.
Ready to price your container?
Tell us the size and your postal code and we’ll send back an honest, all-in number, container, delivery, and placement, usually within 1-3 days. No pressure, no mystery fees.
Family-run in Brantford since 1995 · 200+ containers in stock · 4.9★ across 124+ Google reviews · every box graded by a person, walk it before it lands.
What Drives the Cost of Winterizing a Container?
A reasonable winter-ready setup on a 20 ft container in Ontario stacks up the way the table below shows. Rather than quote a dollar figure that drifts with the steel market and the contractor, here is where each component sits on the budget, what makes it move, and how long it lasts:
| Component | Relative budget weight | What drives its cost | Lifespan |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pair of louvred passive vents, installed | Low | Number of vents and an hour of install labour | Life of container |
| Pressure-treated 6×6 corner blocks, set | Low | Lumber prices and whether you set them yourself | 15 to 20 years |
| 6-mil poly ground barrier (20 ft footprint) | Lowest | Footprint size; often laid free during delivery | 5 to 8 years |
| EPDM door gasket replacement (both doors) | Low | Gasket length per door and fit labour | 10 to 12 years |
| Calcium chloride desiccant (12 lb, per winter) | Low, recurring | Container volume; about one pound per 100 cubic feet, reloaded each winter | One winter |
| 50 mm closed-cell spray foam (optional) | Highest by far | Square footage of steel, foam thickness, and contractor rate | 20+ years |
| Unheated package (vent, elevate, seal, desiccate) | Small share of the total | Several modest line items combined | (varies) |
| Foam-insulated package | Several times the unheated package | Spray foam dominates the budget | (varies) |
For most Ontario storage applications, the unheated package without spray foam handles a typical winter for a small fraction of what the full-foam build costs. Add the foam only if the bin houses humidity-sensitive contents or doubles as a workshop where you spend time inside. The honest answer Van Blanc gives most customers is: vent, elevate, seal, and desiccate. Spray foam is the premium step, not the first step. Our full-season guide to container moisture covers the year-round picture; this piece is for Decembers through Marches specifically.
When Should You Call a Professional Versus DIY?
Most container winterization work is DIY-friendly. Installing louvred vents takes an angle grinder, a drill, and an hour. Setting corner blocks is half a day with a friend and a Skid-Steer. Laying poly under a container is something we do on-site during delivery for any customer who asks.
The work to outsource: spray foam application, electrical install if you go with a desiccant-wheel dehumidifier, and any modification that involves cutting structural members. Van Blanc handles the spray foam and electrical through trusted contractor partners we have worked with in the Brantford area for years. The work we will not do is undermining the structural integrity of the container itself, because once that is compromised, the moisture-management math changes.
If you have a container already on site and you want a winter moisture assessment, call us at 519-754-6844 and we can talk through what you have, what is happening with it, and what the cheapest effective intervention looks like. The same phone gets you a quote if you are starting fresh with a factory-built unit, or a delivery slot if you already know what you want.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my shipping container sweat in winter?
Container sweating in winter happens because warm humid interior air contacts the steel ceiling and walls, which conduct heat outward to the colder ambient air. When the steel surface drops below the dew point of the interior air, vapour condenses out, forms frost overnight, and drips during daytime thaws. The cure is breaking that temperature gap through ventilation, insulation, and desiccants.
How do I stop frost forming on the ceiling of my container?
Install a pair of louvred passive vents diagonally (one low, one high), which prevents humid air from accumulating overnight. If frost still appears, the ceiling steel is dropping below the interior dew point, which means you need insulation. 50 mm closed-cell spray foam on the ceiling raises the surface temperature enough to prevent frost in most Ontario conditions.
Do desiccants like DampRid actually work in a cold container?
Calcium chloride desiccants work down to roughly minus thirty-five degrees Celsius, well below any Ontario winter temperature you will see. They absorb moisture by deliquescence and remain effective regardless of cold. Use roughly one pound of desiccant per 100 cubic feet of container space. A 20 ft container needs about 12 pounds, distributed across the floor, with monthly brine reservoir checks through January, February, and March.
Will an electric dehumidifier work in an unheated container?
Standard compressor-style basement dehumidifiers do not work below about 5 °C. The coils ice up and the unit shuts down on safety. Desiccant-wheel electric dehumidifiers do work in sub-zero temperatures but require continuous 120 V power and cost considerably more to buy and run. For most unheated Ontario storage containers, passive calcium chloride desiccant is the practical answer.
How much does it cost to winterize a 20 ft shipping container in Ontario?
A basic winterization package (passive vents, corner elevation, poly ground barrier, door gasket inspection, and desiccants) is the affordable starting point on a 20 ft container. Adding 50 mm closed-cell spray foam to walls and ceiling multiplies the total several times over, since the foam is by far the costliest component. Most storage applications do well with the basic package. Spray foam is for occupied workshops or humidity-sensitive contents.
Is closed-cell spray foam worth it on a storage container?
Closed-cell spray foam is worth it when the container houses humidity-sensitive contents (electronics, instruments, art, documents), doubles as an occupied workshop, or sits in a climate where freeze-thaw cycles are severe and persistent. For seasonal storage of farm equipment, tools, or basic goods, ventilation, elevation, and desiccants handle it for a fraction of the outlay. Honest answer from Paul: most customers do not need spray foam for storage.
Why is March worse than January for container moisture damage?
March temperatures swing across the freezing point daily while interior air can hold meaningful water vapour. January cold is dry; the air physically cannot hold much moisture. March’s freeze-thaw window (typical first week of March through mid-April in Brantford) is when ceiling frost melts, walls warm and cool repeatedly, and accumulated winter moisture becomes visible damage. Inspect in late February before that window opens.
Should I leave my container doors open through winter?
No. Open doors expose the interior to driving snow, ice, and animal entry. Use passive louvred vents instead. The vents provide enough air exchange to prevent humidity buildup while keeping precipitation, rodents, and unauthorized entry out. A properly ventilated container can stay closed and locked all winter while still breathing enough to stay dry inside.
What is the best floor protection for items stored in a winter container?
Elevate everything 4 inches off the wood floor using plastic pallets, foam blocks, or 2×4 sleepers. The floor is where condensation pools first and where ground moisture wicks up from below. Combine the elevation with a 6-mil poly ground barrier under the container’s footprint and you eliminate the two biggest floor-moisture entry points. Direct floor contact is the single most common cause of winter-damaged stored goods.
Can I just heat the container to stop the condensation?
Heating an uninsulated container is expensive and creates a worse problem. A heated interior holds far more vapour than a cold one, so when the heater cycles off at night or fails, the saturated interior air dumps water onto the cold steel in volume. Heat only works paired with insulation that prevents the steel from reaching dew point. For most Ontario storage, the case for passive moisture control over heating a cold box comes down to cost and reliability.
Sources
- Container Owners Association. (2023). Container Condensation: Cargo Sweat and Container Rain Technical Brief. containerownersassociation.org
- Environment and Climate Change Canada. (2024). Canadian Climate Normals 1991-2020, Brantford Municipal Airport Station. climate.weather.gc.ca
- National Research Council Canada. (2022). Moisture Transport in Building Envelopes: Steel Frame and Skin Assemblies. Institute for Research in Construction. nrc.canada.ca
- ASHRAE. (2021). Handbook of Fundamentals, Chapter 1: Psychrometrics. American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers. ashrae.org
- International Maritime Organization. (1972, amended). International Convention for Safe Containers (CSC). imo.org
Reach Van Blanc in Brantford
We have been supplying shipping containers across Ontario since 1995. Our warehouse is at 90 Morton Avenue E in Brantford, and we deliver right across the province on a cash-on-delivery basis. No surprise fees, no chase-the-paperwork.
Van Blanc Ent. Inc. 90 Morton Ave E Unit 1B, Brantford, ON N3R 7J7 +1 888-509-6658
If you have a bin sitting on your property and you are not sure how it is going to handle this winter, call Paul at the office. Fifteen minutes on the phone usually settles whether the cheap fix or the full-foam package is the right call for your situation.